Nikau Café

Nikau - muesli header Dec 2020

City Gallery Wellington, Civic Square, central Wellington
Opens 8am weekdays, 9am weekends; closes 2pm
Muesli $15, porridge $15.50; Supreme coffee, t-Leaf-T tea

Nikau Café has been going since 1998 and is a perennial favourite, especially amongst art gallery goers. It is renown for its cheese scones and kedgeree. It is popular and noisy but between 8.15 and 9.15 am on a Saturday I found it pretty quiet.

Nikau - muesli and coffee Dec 2020

The muesli was well toasted and comprised small to medium sized oat flakes. Some were clumped together in clusters, so it verged on granola, but overall there was very little crunch. Still, I found the taste a bit baked and oat floury, as though the muesli had been roasted with a liquid. The nut component (almonds and pumpkin seeds) was not high, so that didn’t help add much variety, though the coconut flakes certainly gave visual interest.

I don’t recall any dried fruit but the fresh variety and the ginger-spiced cooked rhubarb was a good mix. The yoghurt was thick and creamy. It wasn’t enough to wet the muesli though, so I had to ask for a jug of milk.

One of the very first mueslis I reviewed for this site was at Nikau. Here it is above, from May 2019. I thought it was a good mix of coconut, grain, some nuts (not many) and seeds. Overall the combination of this muesli, poached pears and Zany Zeus yoghurt seemed a bit bland and I didn’t rate it very high. Things have improved with the current version though.

Nikau tea and scone

On another occasion I had English Breakfast tea and a cheese scone. These scones are legendary, and rumour has it that some people reserve them in advance to avoid missing out. I’ve had them a few times here and can confirm that they are probably the best in Wellington. Certainly they set the standard by which all other cheese scones must be measured. They are crisp and crunchy on the outside, while light and cheesy within. Perfect. And they are reheated in an oven, not (argh!) a microwave. They might be a little smaller and more expensive than other café’s, but too much scone eating will only pile on the kilos.

The tea was nice enough, but served in a coffee cup. It was less than hot and rather strong. Asking for an extra jug of hot water solved the last two problems, but they should have been prevented at the outset. The pot poured well and held two to three cups. The tea was leaf, not tea bag. In summary, the tea was OK, but a pity it didn’t match the standard of the scone.

Nikau - interior view to counter

One thing I like about Nikau is its light-toned ply-topped tables. They help give a light and modern feel to the cafe. But it is a pity that, like so many cafés in Wellington, no effort has been put into sound deadening of the space. It has also been partly squeezed into a bit of left-over space, so the end nearest the gallery (first photo above) is a bit grim, with a low ceiling and no daylight, but the wedge at the other end, up and opposite the counter, is quite a pleasant space and opens to a courtyard (photo below, with reverse shot below that).

Nikau - upstairs interior view to outside
Nikau interior upstairs east view

The café is housed within the City Gallery Wellington building but if you turn up before the gallery is open, never fear. There are a couple of exterior doors opening directly into the café at the harbour end of the building.

Nikau Cafe - exterior view
Conclusion

With its reputation for good food I was expecting something better from Nikau. It’s not bad, but there isn’t anything special enough about the muesli to entice me back again. The cheese scone is an entirely different matter though.

Except I have to, um, add a postscript from late 2020 to say that the scone was not so good. Not bad, but no better than other good Wellington cheese scones. I feel let down.

Reviewed December 2020.
Menus, ingredients and opening hours may change. Check with eatery before you visit.

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